Tiny Men Take Time

Painting 7 figures and all of their little packs and belts and buttons is painstaking work. For any of you who have done this, you know what I mean. This is the most figures I have attempted for any one diorama and I can honestly say I will be scaling waaaay back for the next one. In fact, I think I will be starting 1-2 figure dioramas from here on out. I have a couple dios I want to recreate from photos where there are 1 or 2 central figures. This will be a good exercise considering that I really need to work on my figure painting skills. You can’t really tell by the photos, but these only came out so-so. It’s all in the eyes and I can’t seem to get ‘em right!! I still have a bit of of touch up to do on these guys to bring out more details, but this made for a good photo stop.

I used Vallejo acrylics on all of these guys. I have a great range of US ODs and browns. I used my trusty reference book The World War II GI US Army Uniforms 1941-45 in Color.  Even with the photo reference, it’s tough to match colors. Depending on the lighting of the photo, one uniform can look completely different from another. And so it is.

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Go Figure(s)

After some minor clean up and putty work on the figures, I added a couple shoulder straps to the M1 Garands to the dudes standing in the back. I didn’t go through the trouble of making them too fancy, a couple thin strips of foil, just enough to take the place of nothing. Finished these up just in time too, as I received the hard to get Mr. Surfacer 1200 primer in the mail today! This is the first time I am using Mr. Surfacer. It’s what the pros use to prime figures before painting. The primer is ultra thin in its (spray) application as to not ruin any of the fine details of the figures. So far, I love it!

I started fiddling with the deceased horses a bit. I didn’t like the plastic tails that came with the kits, so I just glued some Woodland Scenics Grass in the tail holes to make them look more life like. I will trim them down more later and be shaping them in the final diorama. I have never painted horses before, so should be a challenge.

 

 

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Up Gunned

I was excited to move on to painting and detailing the .50 cal, the .30s, the Garands and Carbines so I could get them into the racks. I used a handy reference guide – World War II The Definitive Visual History. There are a few really nice pages of color photos of  WWII weapons from both Allies to Axis. Before painting, I had to add shoulder straps to the M1 Garands. This is just thinly cut aluminum foil super glued to the buckles. These will barely be visible, but I wanted that extra layer of detail just in case. After attaching the straps, everything was base coated with flat black spray enamel. Using Vallejo Acrylics, I started working from dark to light adding layers of color to build depth (Chocolate Brown, Flat Brown and Beige Brown) being careful to differentiate wood from metal. Next I used a soft #2 pencil to highlight the raised metal areas on the weapons. Two of the Carbines will be in the racks with the butts down behind seats, so I am not super detailing the ammo packs. Although one of them will be in the hand of a GI in the back.

 

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Wash Me Please

Sometimes I fall out of love with the model I’m building in its early stages of painting. Especially if it’s a basic color scheme such as olive drab. The color just kind of sits there with no personality.

Well, I got tired of feeling this way, so I drummed up some emotion and started throwing some love at this thing.

First things first though. I had to seal up the decals I applied and give the finish a good starting point to begin its trip down Weathering Lane. I sprayed a (gloss) coat of Future Floor Shine to even everything up. Then, I sprayed a coat of Vallejo matte varnish over that to get back to dull and also start to fade the olive drab. I have no idea how, but the goof with the decal on the hood miraculously vanished!!  The olive drab was still too green, so I mixed up some Tamiya Buff with thinner 50/50 and started working areas from the bottom up. Now we’re getting somewhere!

One trick I use on rubber surfaces (tires) to weather them is a wash of white oil paint mixed with Oderless Turpenoid. This fades the flat black to a worn grey color. This also works a little bit on the machine guns to dull the metal. I will be attaching the mg’s last since they are so fragile and get in the way of installing the figures.

It’s no secret that many modelers use Burnt Umber oil washes to emphasize details. This is a great way to add a lot of interest with little effort. I mixed up a hefty amount of wash and went over the entire model, filling cracks and crevasses to create shadows and overall dirtying this thing up. I got so excited about applying the wash, I forgot to do some dot filtering (little dots of different color oil paint blended in to the base color) first to give the finish overall depth (AAARGH). We’ll see how it goes from here.

You can kind of see how the Archer Transfers worked out for the gauges and placards on the dashboard. And also a couple on the radio in the back. Nice!

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Home for the Holidays


Whooopie!! A whole day to work on this bad mamma jamma. Can you tell? The tools, straps, tail lights, antenna coils and the guns (which aren’t glued on yet) got painted. I am using mostly Vallejo Acrylics for the detail areas. They go on real smooth, and with a touch of water flow nicely into hard to reach areas. I added some little details which you can’t see like some rounds inserted into the .30 and .50 cals. I glued down the .50 cal boxes in the rear and added the headlights. The goof on the hood is still a little unsightly, but I hope to fade that down a bit with weathering. I have started bits of weathering here and there, but first comes a gloss coat to even everything out before going to town with washes and pigments.

I added a few decals… for some reason “HOOCH” sounded good for the stenciled name on the doors. And I added a big fat star on the right rear.

I couldn’t resist picking up a couple dry transfer sheets from Archer. They had a deal for free shipping for the holidays, so I pounced. I picked up the dashboard placards and gauges and also a set of U.S. insignias for the musette bags. Details. Details.

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Bumps in the Road

Well, it’s been another month since I last posted. Just like I predicted! I need to crack the whip on myself!

As you can see, I have made a little progress with the detailing and painting. I’ll bet you’re asking… “What the hell happened on the hood?”. The poor M3 came down with a bad case of decalitis.  After numerous tries with 3 different markings, I finally got one to sit down on the surface. Unfortunately with the remnants of another stuck to the paint (Damn you decal setting solution!). I could have painted over the goof, but decided that I could make something of it. I think it could turn out to be a happy accident, these vehicles were beaten and battered and I’m thinking this could just be a product of war. Suuure.

I do think some of my lagging on this one is because of some discouraging goofs (typical). After applying the base coat of olive drab and letting it dry for a long time, I decided to peal away my windshield masks. You’ll notice you can’t see the windshield now. Well I had every intention of leaving the armor plate open, but when I pealed off the mask, it looked like glue had somehow creeped up and ruined the clear plastic. I swear I let it dry long enough (insert sad face here). So Problem solved I guess. From the inside it kind of looks like frost on the windshield. It’s December for cryin’ out loud!

I managed to get all the landmines completed and thrown into the racks. They all have little photoetched parts that were very fragile when handling. Glad to have them out of my hair. Just read somewhere that they never carried the mines in the racks because of the danger from attack. My guys will risk it. I also did the .30 cal ammo boxes with decals and placed them in the racks. Tight squeeeeze. Much more to do. Tools and buttons and gauges and straps and guns…

 

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Olive Drab Where Are You?

Finally got some color on this bad boy. It’s not really an excuse, but I have been waiting for Tamiya to ship their new products to the States. From what I hear, there are stricter standards for imports now and Tamiya had to comply before sending new product over seas. That, and they may be rebranding their packaging. No one has any Tamiya paint in stock, so I was waiting until a couple colors were available. Namely Olive Drab. And also Flat White. As it turns out, none of the local shops have the paint in stock still. A buddy of mine loaned me a jar of Olive Drab so I could get on with this thing. Sheesh!

In the photo you can kind of see the color modulation from the dark tones to the varying lighter tones of green. I had to use Tamiya Buff to create a lighter shade of OD. And I also used JA Green to vary up the color scheme a little. I was able to use the new air pressure regulator I got recently so I could paint nice and easy. Without it, my compressor throws out 35-40 psi – no good for control my friends.

I used a zip lock baggie to keep the tow cable from getting painted. And I also used Play-Doh to cover the cable on the winch. I used my trusty circle template to do the rims on the wheels.

I still might be throwing a camo scheme on this thing. Not sure. With all the goodies I have on it, that might be enough color to break up the olive drab so it’s not so boring.

See you in another month. Ha!

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Blackout

It’s nice to see the kit come together cohesively after a nice overall coat of primer. Unfortunately, all the visible extra work (the photo-etch and the scractch buidling etc…) fades away under the blanket of flat black. It will reveal itself again with detail painting later. All of the extras: the mg’s, jerry cans, ammo boxes, mines, rifles and any other parts that need to be assembled later were painted separately.

I am still deciding on the color scheme for this. Maybe a subtle camo pattern? Or maybe a color modulated basic olive drab?

The horses from Verlinden got a coat of black primer too. Although I think I may keep them this color. The black might add to the drama of their death. A discarded barrel might add a desperate addition to the roadblock.

Here is the cast of characters as I am about to primer them too. I may be using some Mr. Surfacer 1200 to get them ready for detailing. The back row figures are from Alpine Miniatures. The yellow ones on the left are from Verlinden, the olive one is a Tamiya figure from the Willys Jeep kit and the driver figure came with the Dragon M3 kit. Usually the M3 can carry up to 10 men. I am going with 7. This will be the most figures I have attempted in a diorama, so I am pacing myself. Plus, the composition works great with who I have included.

 

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Non-Action Packed

If you’re following this blog you’d think I’d had this one built, painted and put on a shelf by now. Summertime duties and a much anticipated trip to Hawaii (Pearl Harbor) cut into build time. But now I am back to my regular still lengthy once a week schedule.

This post focuses on some of the added stowage I applied and further steps in the build process. You’ll notice the addition of the resin musette bags hanging from the rack I built. Pretty straightforward with aluminum foil for straps. Then there is the scratch built jerry can racks on the front bumper made with strip styrene. On the fenders are (in progress) netting and tarps made from aluminum foil and some gauze bandage.

I spent some time assembling the land mines with the photoetched parts. Tiny. They will reside in the racks on the right side. On the left will be .30 cal ammo boxes. The MGs are tacked on for the photo, but this will be their positioning. Further build steps include the addition of the rear door in open position and mud flaps.

 

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Backtracking Again

After receiving all the resin horses in the mail, I decided to lay out the scene as I originally intended – a roadblock of dead horses on a narrow road with the M3 pulling them aside using the winch. I kinda like it! I may still go back to the other idea of the M3 pulling a knocked out Sd.Kfz. 250 off the road, but for now this is the direction I am leaning towards.

The Alpine Miniatures figures arrived this week and as you can see, they do not disappoint. They are very well detailed and the resin seems less brittle than other resin figures I have dealt with.

The Verlinden resin horses are firm in their poses so I figure I will have to create pushed up dirt around them to blend them together better. It will look more convincing since I can not bend them into more realistic “dead” positions. Luckily, one of the kits has the groundwork embedded into the mold, so that helps. There is a German figure posed (in the back) with that one so I will have to chop him off for use in another project. The horse kits came with resin tails and holes to affix them, but they aren’t very realistic looking. I will be using individual strands of scale grass to create more realistic tails. But who knows, I may change my mind on this whole thing once again…

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